Born in 1958, the Baignoire watch – a name that was not officially adopted until 1973 – quickly took its place as one of the Maison’s most emblematic ladies models.
The history of Cartier watchmaking is above all that of shaped watches, breaking with the traditional round case. After the square of the Santos watch which appeared in 1904, or the daring silhouette of the Tonneau watch unveiled in 1906, reflection on the oval shape began in 1912. At this date, the Maison created a first model for ladies featuring a rectangular case with curved ends. The minute track and the roman numerals marking the hours were slightly stretched to better fit the dial.
In 1958, Cartier imagined a new timepiece interpretation of the oval. This time the design did away with all straight lines in favor of a perfectly curved and gently arched shape to hug the wrist. Then described as a “fitted oval” or “curved oval,” the watch became as much a Cartier classic as the Santos de Cartier or Tank. At the time it was adopted by men as well as women – it was notably seen on the wrist George Harrison, Romy Schneider, Catherine Deneuve and Jeanne Moreau.
It was in 1973 that the watch officially took the name Baignoire. Many variations emerged in the 1980s and 1990s, among them the “Casque d’or” (1987), whose bracelet features motifs that echo the case’s shape, and the Baignoire Allongée (1991), with an extremely elongated dial. Little by little the look became more feminine.
The design of the Baignoire watch was revised for a first time in 2009, to offer a case with sharper edges. Ten years later, in 2019, it rediscovered the curves so characteristic of the 1958 model. As for the Baignoire Allongée, its more slender silhouette hugged the shape of the wrist all the better. Some models were adorned with clous de Paris, an emblematic motif in Cartier’s creative repertoire.
For the event Watches & Wonders 2023, a new interpretation of the “Casque d’or” Baignoire model is being unveiled, as well as an unprecedented aesthetic, which will make its mark: a mini Baignoire on a gold bangle, the quintessence of the jewelry watch.
