Part of the Maison’s repertoire since the 1920s , the orchid has become one of the most emblematic specimens of Cartier’s flora. The jeweler chose this flower for its unique beauty and strong character.
First examples of the emblematic bloom
Although flowers are a major source of inspiration for jewelers, Cartier stands apart for its particularly bold creations and original choices of plants, such as the cactus and the orchid.
The orchid makes an appearance in the Maison’s archives from as early as the 1920s. Cartier’s records include a drawing of a comb decorated with flowers that resemble stylized orchids, featuring the clean lines of the Art Deco movement then at its height. The final piece, believed to have included four orchids, was displayed at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes (International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts) in 1925. It was admired of by all, including Adolf de Meyer, a correspondent for Harper’s Bazaar magazine: “Equally charming, a circular comb for short hair to be worn behind the head, with two large bouquets of onyx-studded diamond orchids to each side, whose flowers lay against the hair, above the ears.”
Another remarkable orchid example from the first half of the 20th century is a brooch commissioned in 1937. The piece features facetted amethysts and aquamarines in geometric shapes – a bold mix characteristic of the “Toussaint taste”.
Under the influence of Jeanne Toussaint – Cartier’s Creative Director starting in 1933 – the presence of flora and naturalism in the Maison’s designs grew stronger. Like this brooch, they evoke nature with their flowing lines, although enhanced by the stylized touch of calibrated colored stones, sometimes in brand-new combinations.
Strikingly realistic compositions
During Cartier’s contemporary period, the orchid has gradually become one of the most emblematic specimens of the Maison’s flora.
In 2005, a High Jewelry collection called Caresse d’orchidées was dedicated entirely to the orchid, interpreting the flower’s amazing vitality in approximately 60 brand-new pieces. To render the unique form and flowing movement of orchid petals, the designs reach new heights of precision in their lines, explore the effects of contrast between filled and empty space, and meticulously sculpt volumes and shapes. Spring green, intense pink and red, sunny yellow, and radiant white – the rich palette reflects the wide diversity of the flower’s varieties.
One of the most exceptional pieces is a necklace of emerald beads and rubellite drops, perfectly summarizing the essence of the collection. A central flower of striking realism sets off an impressive 18.40-carat rubellite. The petals are exquisitely delicate: each features a unique design and crisp lines, adorned with ruby-paved lines evoking the flower’s veins. The naturalism of the piece is heightened by the cascade of emeralds and rubellites, which form an asymmetrical pendant. Embodying the luxuriance of nature, this organic arrangement seems to be in mid-bloom, almost bending under the weight of the gems, like precious berries about to bud.
Since 2007, orchids have also been featured in fine jewelry of pink gold and chalcedony, white gold and diamonds, and even onyx. The pieces display a sunny or contrasted palette while exploring a naturalistic tone. Even when rendered in essential lines, the petals are never flat, but always sculpted in volume.
The challenge of sculpting
While the vibrancy and seeming fragility of orchids hold strong appeal, they represent a challenge for the jeweler, who must tame resistant materials and transform them into precious flowers full of vitality. This is demonstrated in Cartier’s jewelry sets sculpted in hard stone. Committed to the preservation of rare crafts and skills, the Maison created its own glyptics workshop in 2010. In the expert hands of its sculptors, blocks of rubellite, morganite or other stones assume unexpectedly light and supple forms. These creations display the orchid’s flowing, sculptural shape and embody its delicate beauty and strong character.
