The Maison has always nurtured a passion for the diversity of diamond cuts. Breaking from established conventions, Cartier looks for singular gems whose unique personality or hidden mystery enhances their appeal.
In the 1990s, Cartier enthusiastically revived the briolette, an ancestral cut of Indian origin featuring a fully facetted tear shape. The jeweler admires how briolettes play with the light and evoke their country of origin. This cut has since been a favorite one in the Maison’s creations, especially those with an Indian heritage. One example is this 1998 necklace skillfully combining fluidity and profusion.
The sparkle of the myriad briolettes ideally complements the luster of the natural pearls, whose tints range from cream to dark brown. Together, the tones create a saffron camaïeu, hinting at the necklace’s Indian inspiration. The infinitely soft and delicate array of shades is emblematic of Cartier’s palette at the end of the twentieth century. Contrasting with the multitude of gems and creating a visually lighter composition, the necklace cascades from a 20.43-carat oval-shaped diamond to form a swinging tassel.
The allure of the necklace and the way it is worn are very representative of Cartier’s changing style at the dawn of the twenty-first century. Less formal than before, jewelry was designed with more freedom and versatility of use in mind. It was also more intimate, personal and playful. Intended to be worn with ease, the pieces followed the body’s natural movements and posture.